Fashion Scholarship Fund 2021: Design Challenge

Achievements

• Invited to the closing gala in NYC

• Designed a proof of concept that connects Eastern and Western cultures

• Transformed Gen Z insights into a 5-piece look

Submissions

TLDR Summary

• Combined, China and the US account for 42.06% of the global fashion industry.

• There is a lack of brands that align with Chinese aesthetics for this significant market share.

• I aimed to fill this gap by designing a fashion line that blends appeals to both Eastern and Western tastes.

*statistics via fashion united

Discovery

Challenge

Inspired by the avant-garde approach and impactful showmanship of brands like Comme des Garçons and Alexander McQueen, I aimed to create pieces that captivate on the runway and enhances the allure of everyday pieces.

User research

The collection started during my travels in China between 2019 and 2020, pre-COVID, when travel was seamless. I photographed, sketched, and memorized motifs that would later become the cornerstone of my designs.

My observations walking around malls revealed a trend: Chinese consumers have a strong preference for Western fashion brands. Streetwear enthusiasts gravitate towards labels like Bape, Supreme, Nike, and Jordan, while the luxury segment favors Louis Vuitton, Prada, YSL, and Gucci. Chinese or Chinese-American owned brands rarely break into the mainstream, with Alexander Wang being a notable exception. However, his modernist, often monochrome designs lack distinctly Asian influences.

This trend may partly stem from the cultural prestige attached to American brands in China, exemplified by how fast-food chains like KFC and McDonald's are seen as premium casual dining. Additionally, there is a lack of true Asian American public personas that can speak the Chinese language and are therefore relatable to the Chinese market. Exceptions to this are basketball player Jeremy Lin and Olympic skier Eileen Gu, who have amassed significant followings including in fashion.

This analysis underscores the potential for a brand that welds Western inspiration with Eastern appeal, especially for Gen Z consumers who, benefiting from their parents' economic gains, possess substantial buying power.

Celebrities like Jeremy Lin and Eileen Gu would be target endorsers of my collection

Aesthetic Influences 

My goal was to craft something that's not only trendy but also resonates with Eastern culture. The challenge lies in identifying a distinctive design or symbol that can become iconic.

I chose Bape as my design inspiration due to its identifiable ape motif, easily adaptable across a variety of clothing items.

Visual Language

I selected dragons as my central motif, drawing on their long-standing symbol of imperial power and cultural significance in Asia.

Inspirations

Inspired by Rei Kawakubo's sculptural designs for Comme des Garçons, I aimed to blend artistry with commerce. Kawakubo's runway shows, known for creating buzz, enabled the launch of iconic items like the CDG x Converse heart logo, turning simple designs into commercial successes.

Sketches

I then proceeded to produce some sketchbook ink drawings, merging lines into garment outlines. This experimentation with shapes and forms marked the beginning of my design process, exploring ways to express ideas through clothing.

I maintained consistency in my illustrations by using a checkered mask technique, drawing inspiration from the Yeezus Tour Maison Margiela masks

I found out later the USC professor mentoring me on this project helped design the Maison Margiela masks for the Yeezus tour!

The mask drawings aim for consistency and spark the imagination, inviting viewers to envision what's hidden beneath without defining the model's identity, allowing space for fantasy.

During a stakeholder meeting with my professor, we reviewed my designs and selected 5 ensembles for the competition submission. These pieces stood out for their creativity, sculptural flair, and visual appeal, balancing between sculpture, art, and fashion.

I refined the selected designs into detailed digital illustrations in Photoshop, using selection, pen, and masking tools to add color, depth, and texture, effectively bringing the dragon motif to life on each ensemble.

pictures of dragon motifed fabric to parse

illustration of the collection

I enhanced the final designs by setting the illustrations against a grey gradient background, adding depth to enrich the viewer's experience. I also incorporated a low-opacity reverse image, cropped to mimic a reflection, enhancing the designs' visual impact.

For the title, I chose the calligraphic phrase "Zhen Gu Chuan Xing," a Mandarin proverb meaning "honor the past, embrace the future."

I utilized a Chinese text font generator to achieve a calligraphy-like style for added authenticity.

The proverb "Zhen Gu Chuan Xing" reflects my Chinese American identity, balancing my Eastern heritage with my upbringing in America. This unique position allows me to craft cross-cultural creations, blending dominant Western tastes with elements of ancient Chinese culture, all while maintaining a modern appeal.

Thought Process

For the presentation, I synthesized my research and design journey into a mockup. Displaying the designs alongside their historical and conceptual inspirations effectively communicated the creative narrative behind each piece.

Physical Prototype

Upon returning from China, I created a physical prototype of my concept. Utilizing materials like chicken wire, hot glue, and fabric, I crafted a sculptural fashion piece reflective of my illustrated designs.

Photoshoot

My friend Daniel modeled the piece and I shot him on 35mm film to achieve a softer and ethereal color palette. 

Results

Highlighting its success, the project received an invitation to the FSF closing gala in New York City. This acknowledgment served as a testament to the project's impact, celebrating the fusion of cultures and the innovative contributions to the fashion dialogue between China and America.

Reflection

Merging my passions for design, fashion, and art into a project that championed cross-cultural collaboration was incredibly fulfilling. I'm eager to continue exploring projects that blend my interests. I'm particularly excited about creating works that resonate with Chinese Americans and delving into products I'm passionate about.

Other Projects